XC Bike Trip: Oregon to Virginia

Most of my life has been spent working towards something: high school and college degrees, fulfilling my commitment to Teach for America and the Rotary Scholarship program, completion of my JP Morgan analyst tenure. I've been fortunate to have been provided these many wonderful opportunities and to have met some of the most amazing people along the way. There has been pain, joy, triumph, and defeat. Looking back, I have the utmost appreciation of these moments and wouldn't change a single one.

What needs to change, however, is my perspective. I need to spend a little less time on figuring out how to get where I’m going and a little more on why I want to go there, all the while giving a greater admiration to those things that make life special along the way. As one adventure ends and a new one begins, I look forward to new challenges, emotions, and individuals it will bring with it. Here’s to the journey!

Monday, April 27, 2009

Venezuela

I often joke about how I'm going straight to hell, usually for an inappropriate joke I made or for something I did. I might have to change this tongue and cheek remark as Im starting to think Ive already been. I really cant say enough bad things about Venezuela, though I sure can try. It wasnt all negative, however, so lets start out with the positive.

Some highlights:

The hot dogs. Sounds weird, I know, but the way they dress them is an art form where the actual meet takes second stage. Ketchup, mustard, mayonnaise, and potato crisps are the standard topping, then you have about another 10-16 to choose from. I usually went with processed cheese and hot sauce, Julie took the former and some form of corn. Its funny how much this country loves its toppings, quite the contrast to argentina (pretty much no sauces, ever).

Our trip back to catch our flight was a little shakey. It was Easter weekend, which is pretty much the south american travel equivalent of thanksgiving in the US, except that you can only buy your bus tickets the day of. generally never a problem, but I went early to the station (about 15 hours before we wanted to leave) just in case. What I found looked more like the trading floor of the NYSE than a bus station, pure chaos with all the buses sold out. Our bus was sold out so we collected our things and returned, looking for a private car (much more expensive) but really just hoping to make it back so we could make our flight.

What we ended up finding was much better. It was a bus, one that was not altogether too comfy, but very clean. More important than the bus were the people inside it. Everyone seemed very nice and helpful and we actually ended up sitting next to some Law School students from Caracas. Although there was a language barrier at times, we managed to get along quite quite...the booze helped. They were having a time of it with Rum and Coke, but since I dont drink coke about every 15 minutes theyd offer up a cap full of rum. Julie wasnt as keen on the rum so one of the girls pulled out baileys. Although the never had enough to get intoxicated (they did), it proved a great social lubricant. Before I knew it our bus had turned into a variety show. People were getting up to tell jokes as we were stuck in traffic, one guy had a guitar and led horribly off key (but funny) sing alongs, etc. Julie and I actually became the center of attention as one of the students tried to convince some other individuals we were actually venezuelans posing as americans to trick them all. Babies then starting getting passed around to take pictures with us, we were giving samba dancing lessons while the bus was stuck in traffic, I really cant make this stuff up. Once we arrived the students then took us out for a traditional venezuelan type meal and even treated us! They called us a secure taxi that was half the price of our initial one from the airport and even offered up their place (we refused, had to draw the line somewhere). As tough of an experience as we had in Venezuela, it was so refreshing to experience such a random act of kindness and I will never forget it.

PLEASE NOTE: I would never recommend taking drinks from strangers or following the back to their place, especially not in Venezuela...this was a very special set of circumstances.



THE NOT SO GOOD STUFF

Venezuelas' problems really stem from one main thing: Chavez. I have no doubt he is significantly better than the Caudillo's before him, but that gives him no right to run the country into the ground in hopes of boosting his own ego. From Chavez comes the currency problem. In order to curb growing inflation a few years back, the Venezuelan Bolivar was pegged to the US dollar at a rate of 2.15 to 1. Although inflation was somewhat tamed, its still high and the rate has become a farce. So much so, in fact, that just about anywhere you go there is a parallel (illegal but common) market for US dollars at a rate of around 5 to 1.

For tourists this is a problem because if you want to do venezuela on the cheap, you have to walk around with all the cash you are planning to spend for the entire vacation. Considering Venezuela is the most dangerous of South American countries, this isnt realy a good idea. For Venezuelans this is a problem because everything is sold at the parallel rate, making prices absurdly high. I can only presume that Chavez has used oil money to help appease the masses. Gas is priced at nearly free ($1 US to fill up your tank) and oil revenues are used to lower taxes and give money to those in need. This was all well and good when oil was $150 a barrel, but at one third of that Chavez is going to have to make some tough changes. My fears are as follows: currency gets depegged and collapses, chavez reduces social welfare programs and raises taxes thus becoming unpopular, refuses to give up control and becomes dictator type (by force if necessary).

OTHER TOURIST THINGS

You wont read much about Venezuela online, as most people either dont go there or those that do try to forget it. Its a shame really, cause a fair amount of the people seem good and helpful. They are, however, overshadowed by the massive amount of crime and the seedy underbelly. Id say Gotham City would be a good comparison, if the readers dont mind me summoning my inner comic book nerd. We spent most of our time in the Caribbean, on Margarita Islans and along the coast (palay colorada). Both are considered treasures but what we saw was trashed lined roads and beaches filled with litter. Some interesting security measures were instituting along our journey. To exchange what was about $7 US officially (before I knew of the black market) I not only had to give my name and passport number (plus a copy), but also my finger print. Addiditionally, on our way to the beach our bus would stop and everyone wuold have to get out for a luggage search and full scale pat down. Men with gun had all the males line up, hands on the bus, legs spread where they made sure you werent packing heat. Although there method could be described as quite thorough (or "all up in my junk") it actually made me feel less safe). Unless things change significantly in terms of politics, economics, and infrastructure, I really wouldnt recommend this country to anyone. Even these "beautiful places" that we were supposed to have seen were tarnished and hard to enjoy as we never felt comfortable.


Ill leave you with a comparison of costs to hammer to point home on just how expensive venezuela is.

Columbia: 6 nights, all in decent and comfortable hostels. Took taxis almost everywhere and ate a large majority of our meals in restaurants. Did laundray, stocked up on supplies (dry goods, shampoo, etc.) Saw sights, went to museums, and paid for excursions. Total cost per person per week: $200

Venezuela. 7 nights, 2 spent in a hilton hotel (free from points), another free as we slept in the airport. Two of the four night of paid lodging were in places visiting by working girls and johns, and the other two were spent in a commune type place where i slept in a hammock (or didnt sleep, rather). We are out once, breakfast. The rest of the meals werent realy even cooked, they were generally peanut butter sandwiches. Depleted supplies, no laundry, walked everywhere. Saw very few sights and paid no entrance fees (couldnt afford it). Total cost per person per week: $300.

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